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Moroso also offers these
4-inch V-belt pulleys for the 1-inch spindle shaft. They also
make a 2.5-inch for high RPM engines. If you prefer the gilmer
belt style, Moroso also has a large selection of pulleys that
use that type belt. |
WINTER STORAGE TIPS:
I thought I would just go over a quick list of things
I have to do every winter to prevent unnecessary damage to expensive
equipment. Here is a list I use every fall. You guys in the warmer
climates probably don't relate to some of this (Lucky!).
Trailer:
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I like to park the trailer so rain and snow will
drain off the roof.
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I prefer to remove all the tires and wheels and
put them in the garage or basement. This will keep the tires from
weather-cracking better than any tire treatment could. Besides,
it is really tough for a thief to steal it with no tires!
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Unhook the battery and take into the garage where
it can be charged once in a while.
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Spray all the hinges and locks with a quality
fogging oil or good penetrating oil.
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I always pull the brake drums and check the brakes
and wiring and do my wheel bearing/hub service at this time. Just
one less thing to do next spring.
Since my motorhome is for "racing only," I store it
as soon as racing is over. Some guys do the same thing with Toter trucks,
duallys, etc.
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Change all the fluids, service the generator,
check the antifreeze and belts and replace anything that needs
it.
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I also like to put a small wood block under the
wiper arms to keep the blades off the glass. That way next spring
the wiper blades are perfect.
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We unhook all the batteries when we store it and
then about two times during the winter we go to the storage building
and plug in the "maintenance charger" for a weekend.
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We always tape up the exhaust outlet, furnace
vent and any other place some "critter" might get in.
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If you have some race gas or alcohol left over
(which I always seem to have) I have always stored in inside the
trailer in a metal drum with the lid sealed. I have never had
a problem with fuel I stored this way.
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DO NOT store it in the house or even in an attached
garage if you can come with another place. The problem with garages
in the winter is you might have a portable heater you use on weekends
or in the evenings and at night the temperature goes way down
and then back up again. This causes a lot of vapor buildup in
the fuel drums and can also be a source of condensation in the
storage container, a SURE way to ruin some expensive fuel.
Race Car:
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If you are not taking the engine out for rebuilding,
make sure you either drain ALL the water out if the system or,
better yet in my opinion, drain the system and put in a 50/50
mix of premium antifreeze and distilled water and circulate for
10 to 15 minutes with the electric water pump.
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I always try to drain 100 percent of the fuel
out of the tank, the lines, fuel pump and filters. If you run
alcohol I suggest flushing the system with regular gas then draining
it again.
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I then remove the spark plugs and have someone
crank the engine over while I spray fogging oil into the intake
so the cylinder walls and valve stems will be lubricated during
storage. Replace the plugs and back off the rocker arms so the
valves are closed.
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I always take the tires into the basement and
look over the entire brake system every fall.
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Batteries. We all know how much we rely on these.
Unhook the battery and clean the posts and the battery case itself.
Check the electrolyte level and fill with distilled water if low.
I put my battery in the heated shop and plug it into a "Battery-Tender"
maintenance charger that can be left plugged in all year and will
never overcharge the battery.
I know this pretty boring stuff but I just wanted
to remind you of something you might have forgotten. Stay tuned for
even more in-depth tech articles this winter as we are going to build
a race powerglide, set-up the 9-inch ring and pinion, and show you
the newest way to connect MSD ignition systems. We will also look
at the latest in safety equipment and some inside information on electronics
currently being used and what is on the design board.
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