CHECK THOSE HOSES

We left off last installment by looking at the fuel system. Now that the engine is installed, I can show you how slick the Barry Grant mechanical by-pass and Race Demon fit the new Dart intake. Easy to plumb and even easier to adjust. The fuel system holds 4 lbs off fuel pressure at idle and 9.5 going through the beams.

The Race Demon has been flawless from the start except for an error I made. In our rushing around I did not get the new hoses we made flushed out before I hooked them up. The needle and seat stuck a couple times before I got the trash out of the lines between the filter and the carb. The Race Demon came with #180 main jets and they are too rich for the Isky hydraulic cam the Burkster used in the 388-inch small block. We'll go to #163 square before the next race and see if that cleans it up a little.

As you well know, if you can't get all the spark to the plugs you can't burn the fuel, so we went with MSD Super Conductor plug wires. We chose the universal set with 90-degree plug ends already attached. We also got a tool from MSD that is the COOLEST thing I have used yet, the MSD Crimping Tool part #3505. I have used every other possible means to try to get a really nice crimp on race plug wires but NOTHING comes close to the great job this tool does. Plus, you can order other adapters for it to use on regular wires, special connectors, etc. No more folding the conductor under and using needle nose pliers and hoping they don't come loose. Spend the $50 or $60 and get a tool that does it right and will last forever. That way you can loan it out to your friends and try to remember who borrowed it last!

MSD tool #3505 and the Super Conductor plug wires. This tool is the best way to properly install ends on your plug wires. Don't forget to put the boot on first and lube it with some liquid soap so it slides easily over the plug wire.	I used the MSD tool that comes with the plug wires to strip the wire back to expose about a quarter-inch of conductor. Be careful not to cut too deep into the spiral wiring that surrounds the core. The tool helps prevent that.

We also decided to go the budget route with the fuel and transmission lines and yet still maintain safety by using quality products. I used a local industrial supply house owned by a guy who used to bracket race and now helps out on a Top Alcohol Funny Car. Scot's Supply in Waterloo, IA has two guys at the counter who drag race every week and a couple other guys involved with stock car racing.

We got Aeroquip Push-Lock hose and steel fittings from them for the fuel system. Those fittings and hoses cost about a fourth of what stainless braided hose and anodized aluminum fitting would have cost us. The hoses have a 250 psi pressure rating and the fittings simply "push on." Spraying with carb cleaner really helps, by the way.

The fittings we're using are all compatible with the more expensive Earls or Aeroquip aluminum AN fittings. The fittings we are using are plated steel and will last the life of this car and several others. We use it from tank to carburetor and have never had a problem with either IHRA or NHRA tech. (They have to know it is about 1000% better than flimsy, crack prone aluminum fuel lines).

The Barry Grant mechanical by-pass, the alcohol 750 cfm Race Demon and the Aeroquip Push-Lock hoses on top of the Dart intake manifold. Simple and it works great. We are also currently using the alcohol compatible block mounted fuel pump from BG.	Moroso's billet water pump runs almost silent and has no problem keeping the little "Burkster 383" at 165 degrees all day long.