This picture shows the rear rotor retaining bolts and the safety wire between the bolts to prevent them from coming out. I also use Loctite on every bolt during reassembly.

This is the battery hold down Andy whipped up one Saturday. It can hold two Optima batteries if we need it to. He used 3/8” steel rod and some 1/8” flat steel as well as the required 3/8” threaded rod to hold it all in place.

Next up was securing the battery. The previous hold down weighed about as much as a battery and the threaded rod extended through the mounting tab and had caught on the trailer a few times. Andy came up with the idea for this retainer and built it in our tricked out shop (OK, actually it is a cluttered, crowded shop that was pretty small for one dragster and now there are two in there. Just proves a little ingenuity and basic materials can get you a good result.) Looks good, battery can’t move and all I had to do was paint it. It is designed so we can add another battery in case we are delayed in getting the alternator mounted.

The front spindles were taken apart, the steering rack mounting bolts checked and all that was needed was some grease put on the bushings and the rod ends were tight so we reinstalled them with new bolts and stainless Ny-loc nuts. Alignment will come when we get the wheels back on it. We have used about 1/16” toe-in on both cars with great results.

Mounting the inside master disconnect is pretty straight forward. I found a local shop that could make a 4' cable with a bulkhead end (for the dash) and a 10-24 threaded end for the switch end. The bracket is mounted to the knee tray and it took about an hour to get it installed.

We will use the dash Andy carved out last summer. The only changes will be the installation of a dash-mounted master shut-off. You can see it on the right side of the dash. To get both cables to operate the single master disconnect switch we had to find a new arm for the switch that would work for two cables. As you can see it is simply a piece of aluminum held in place with two set screws and then we needed to rods ends with 10-32 threads for the cables to fasten to. The Chassis Shop had everything we needed for under $25.00 but you could easily make something yourself if you had the time. The shut-off in the cockpit is a great safety feature and I wish it was required on every race car. It can also make life easier if you crawl into the car and left the master switch off. Rather than have to get out in a hurry you can simply turn it on from the driver’s seat.