2. Traditional Wet Cell Batteries. The most common type of battery is a regular lead acid storage battery with liquid electrolyte. It has been improved virtually to the limits of its technology. Then Turbo-Start comes up with their 16-volt race battery that we will cover later. Since wet cell batteries contain liquid electrolyte it can cause corrosion and will spill if it is tipped over or punctured. Some examples of this type of battery are the 16-volt Turbo-Start, Sears Die-Hard or Wal-Mart Energizer and about a 100 other brand names.

DRO: A POPULAR CHOICE AMONG BRACKET RACERS IS THE USE OF A "DEEP CYCLE" WET CELL BATTERY. WHAT ARE THE GOOD POINTS AND BAD POINTS OF CHOOSING A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FOR DRAG RACING?

Battery Experts: The good part of a deep cycle is its ability to offer more reserve power and that it is designed to be drained and recharged over and over. Deep cycles get their reserve power from additional "plates" inside the battery. They will last longer but the penalty is they are heavier and offer less "starter power" due to internal resistance, and they usually cost more money.

The Battery Experts agreed the deep cycle battery has its good points in some applications but there is no clear-cut advantage in drag racing applications because we just don't put the drain on them like a trolling motor on a boat or use in an RV would.

DRO: WHAT ABOUT AN ALTERNATOR? SHOULD EVERY DRAG CAR HAVE ONE?

Battery Experts: If you run a 12-volt battery, dry cell or wet cell, it was unanimous you should run an alternator to maintain enough voltage during the run to keep the ignition, fuel pumps, etc working as they were designed. The exception was the Turbo-Start 16 Volt battery; they recommend NO alternator for their batteries. They are designed to be brought back to a fully charged state by their special 16-volt battery chargers between rounds.

My Experience: I ran some tests a few years ago and I have decided to run an alternator to help the battery stay charged. In the event you get to the late rounds and have to run three or four rounds in about 30 minutes, you will not have time to hook a battery charger up to the car. This another example of "If you prepare to race, be prepared to win."

MSD and other ignition manufacturers recommend an alternator to maintain voltage at 13-14 volts during the entire race. Turbo-Start 16-volt systems accomplish that by starting at a higher voltage.

DRO: IF YOU JUST DON'T HAVE THE SPACE FOR AN ALTERNATOR WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS?

Battery Experts: They all seemed to agree on this one. Use two batteries or at the very least be diligent on recharging the battery correctly between rounds.

My Experience: Without the alternator and a fully charged battery (about 12.8 volts), the instant you start the car the battery is discharging. Will you get full spark from your ignition? NO! Will your fuel pump provide steady pressure for the full run? NO! Will your electronic timers perform to the 1/100th of a second? MAYBE. Think I am wrong? Could be! Try this. Turn on your ignition, fuel pump(s), water pump and then engage the transbrake or turn on another accessory you run during a race. You will hear the fuel pump slow down.

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