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THE GREAT CROSS-COUNTRY CAMARO TOUR

DAY 6

We awoke in Sheridan, Wyo., ready to head into Big Sky Country. We discovered just how big and desolate Montana is when we learned, well out of the range of turning around, that our gas gauge pointed to empty. We passed a half-dozen exits from I-90 that led to nowhere -- literally, without even an abandoned barn in sight for miles. Finally, at a shameful 50 miles an hour in our gorgeous speed machine, we limped into Lodge Grass, Mont.

We pulled up to the town's lone gas pump -- which was padlocked. Turns out we were on the Crow Indian Reservation. We flagged down Johnny Angel -- Johnny Castro, the town maintenance worker, who was posting a campaign sign for wife Lola Plenty Hawk. She was running for town alderman, on a write-in campaign with mayoral candidate Antoinette Left Hand. Johnny Castro, a father of five, is a practical man. He buys cheaper gasoline from nearby towns and has his own stash. So he sold us enough to get us to Garryowen for a thankful.

Garryowen is named for the Irish tune which was the battle hymn of the 7th U.S. Cavalry, General George Custer's command. The tiny town, little more than a convenience store, museum and post office, is the site where the Battle of Little Bighorn began in June 1876. Down the highway three miles is the national cemetery and battlefield where the Lakota and Cheyenne tribes made mincemeat of Custer and his outmanned soldiers. Tall grasses sway around the tombstones of the fallen cavalrymen, and markers recount the unsuccessful maneuvers of Majors Reno, Benteen and Gibbon as they tried to help Custer against Chiefs Gall, Crazy Horse and Two Moons and the Medicine Man Sitting Bull.







 

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