Before final assembly, Dorton prefers wiping mating metal surfaces
clean with paper shop towels (stray cloth threads might clog a vital
engine close-tolerance gap) dipped in lacquer thinner because it doesn't
leave any oily residue that could affect a gasket's sealing. Naturally,
take the necessary health precautions when using this volatile solvent
and disposing of shop consumables soaked in it. Have plenty of ventilation
available and use rubber gloves. Using a clean pair of light rubber
gloves when handling gaskets is a good idea anyway because they keep
grease or oil from your hands from fouling the gasket and affecting
its sealing.
A clean mating surface is useless for superior gasket sealing if it
is not flat or straight, so Dorton says to confirm surfaces are that
way. One of the major sealing unions in the engine is between the engine
block and the cylinder head(s), so make sure you trust your machine
shop to get these true. You can do a quick coarse check for flatness
of mating surfaces with a straightedge and a feeler gauge - lay it along
the length and width of the parts and measure any gap. As a general
guide, you want to hold this gap to be at a maximum of around 0.002-inch
on aluminum surfaces and to 0.004-inch on cast iron ones.
Don't assume a gasket will fit correctly and is the correct one for
the mating surfaces - it's prudent to trial-fit it to check its alignment
and mating before installing the gasket and then torquing the surfaces
together. Dorton admonishes, for cylinder head gasket installation in
particular, "Don't install it upside down or backwards! It can happen.
Make sure you follow any labeling on the gasket that tells how it aligns
to the parts." He also makes sure that metal surfaces are not the only
items you want to keep flat. He stores any gasket sets so the aren't
inadvertently creased or bent.
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Dorton has also seen this uneven gap on racing
oil pans ranging in cost from economical to expensive. How do you
seal it with a stock oil pan gasket? Hint: You don't use a hammer
or RTV. |
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The bottom rubber oil pan end seal is the
stock one supplied in a gasket kit. Dorton has modified the top
one by buffing its outside radius with a belt sander to taper the
seal's ends and thin its center section. This custom gasket will
now conform to the irregularly gapped end-union between oil pan
and block. |
HEAD GASKET GUIDELINES
The union of the engine block and cylinder head is a major joint in
a racing engine and deserves extra attention and a special gasket. Basically,
this gasket has to function in one of the toughest environments in the
engine: extreme temperature, extreme pressure, extreme shock loading
by vibration and shearing forces, and the likely job of sealing a joint
between dissimilar metals (cast iron and aluminum) while allowing fluids
to be routed through it. There are plenty of opportunities for a head
gasket to fail, but you can do your part to get a good seal. Don't scrimp.
Pay for a premium head gasket designed for racing engines. That's your
first line of gasket failure defense.
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