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This is attempting to show the degree notches that are used for advancing or retarding the cam timing. Instead of removing the crank sprocket or using small offset bushings you simply rotate the eccentric to the desired position. NICE!

The last thing I want to touch on is valve clearance. Not having enough can be very bad! I simply cannot emphasize enough the importance of checking valve clearance. Once you have the cam put in its place, assemble a cylinder head with light checking springs on one chamber and install it with an old gasket of the same approximate thickness as the ones you will use. Drop in the pushrods and rocker arms you will be using and set a dial indicator up to read the travel of the valve retainer. Now rotate the engine over carefully and with your hand gently push down on the rocker arm tip where it contacts the valve stem. Doing this at different points along the way you will find the point of closest clearance and know what you have. The correct amount depends on many variables so a call to a reputable engine builder or cam company would be wise. The generally accepted clearance would be .080" minimum. I have some engines running with only .035" clearance but that is not normally desired. It's a rules thing. The design of your valve springs and installed seat pressure can also have dramatic effects on performance, especially when the valve clearances become tighter. I helped a customer with a BBC last year pick up .15 seconds and almost three mph simply by increasing spring pressure. Once again, there is no one perfect pressure for every combination. It is a matter of trial and error, but I always lean towards what some people would call the "over-sprung" end of the spectrum. I have not seen an example yet where too much spring made less power. Unless of course you have a flat tappet cam and wipe the lobes off! Ha, ha!


Here we see the bottom end with windage tray/scraper and the factory Ford oil pump and pickup tube. CUTLINE: This is attempting to show the "spider" tray that keeps the hyd.roller lifters in place. Also, the Ford Performance head gasket.

Well, the pictures will tell the rest of the story and I am REALLY looking forward to finally getting back on the track! Not racing just plain SUCKS! Next issue I will cover the fuel and ignition systems along with intake manifold selection and hopefully have some actual track results!

Remember, life's too short.

When in doubt, DO A WHEELIE!!
Sources
Roeder Performance Machine
1009 Bronson Ave. SE
Waverly, IA 50677
www.roederperformancemachine.com
(319) 352-2220
Comp Cams
3406 Democrat Rd.
Memphis, TN 38118
www.compcams.com
(800) 999-0853
CP Pistons
1902 McGaw
Irvine, CA 92614
www.cppistons.com
(949) 567-9000
Previous Stories

Project Muscrate DRO's
crate motor Mustang - Part 3
— 5/7/04
Life goes on

Back-2-Basics — 6/16/04
We gave it some 'go,' now we need some 'whoa'
Critical Mass  — 6/8/04
Rod Ends
Getting Cool  — 6/8/04
Project Street FX Update





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